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Xbox-Hq.Com :: View topic - Spray painting recomendations
Xbox-Hq.Com Forum Index -> Xbox Case Modding Discussions
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Greven
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Post Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 3:09 am   
Post subject: Spray painting recomendations
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Ok, I'm pretty new to case modding, and I find it pretty fun. I've cleaned some jewels and installed some LED's inside the case, so I thought I would try painting the case.

I removed the top(wish I had painted before installing LEDs), as well as the DVD drive panel and the full front panel of the xbox. I grabbed some sand paper, sanded it a little, washed, let air dry, and then went to it. I start with some primer, and then did 3 coats with metallic silver spray paint, waiting about an hour between the 4 applications.

After the last application, I let it sit over night(about 8-9 hours) and then came back to it. It was... ok. I think I used sandpaper that was way too course, as I could still see some faint sanding lines in the top(the front and the dvd portion were fine). I figured I could live with it for a first attempt. While putting the xbox back together and removing the tape(I just painted the X part and left the sides/back/bottom black), I ended up getting thung prints in the paint! I guess 8 hours isn't enough.

Ok, so I guess these are my questions:

Should I use something like paint thinner or nail polish remover and just take as much paint off as possible with some paper towel, or sand it down with sandpaper more fine that I have?

Should I be leaving the paint to dry more between applications next time? And if so, how long is usually good?

Are sandpaper courseness universal? The stuff I got in Canada is rated 220, which I assume is much to course.

Should I use some kind of sealer to protect the finish?

Any web tutorials that people know of on how to spray paint plastic? I googled for a while, but couldn't find anything good.

Any general information would be great, thanks.


(Update: Apparently I can still put finger prints onto it)



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rausch713
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Post Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 3:47 am   
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I am by no means an expert. If you are lucky, da-goat or halouser or even kdx80boy who has painted plastic models will help you as well. I have just asked a lot of questions so look for any topic in this forum that I have posted in. He is what worked for me:

Krylon Fusion spray paint. It works as it's own primer, so no primer is needed. It dries in 15 minute per the can, but two hours in reality. I only needed 15 minutes between coats though. I put a lot of coats on the top. It turned out the best. I did not sand, but wanted the roughness that the X already had. I did sand the DVD face with 600 grit due to a painting error- it was too rough - I'm glad it is small and less noticable. I thoughly cleaned all parts with soap and water and then rubbing alcohol. Check the photos in my other posts - most of the topics and on the first page still.

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Greven
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Post Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 4:01 am   
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Hmmm, I completely missed your main post, my bad.

So from what I read I should sand the whole thing down again and use a different paint instead. Is the Kryllon paint you were referring too available in most hardware type stores? Or should I be going to a paint store?

Thanks for the feedback.


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rausch713
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Post Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 4:31 am   
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As far as the thumb prints - start with a 600 or 1000 grit and move to 2000 to finish. I will let the other say it you need sand all the way to the black or not.

Here is the link to Krylon Fusion. Fusion Krylon's paint that sticks to almost anything. From this page you can get to their list of sellers - link is on the right.
http://www.krylon.com/main/product_template.cfm?levelid=5&sub_levelid=10&productid=1751&content=product_details

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Greven
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Post Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:33 am   
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I checked the Krylon website, but they don't have the color that I want in Fusion(metallic silver). Walmart did carry "Bright Silver" Krylon interior-exterior, which says it should work ok wood, metal and plastic, so hopefully its ok.

I've attached a picture of how I sanded it down. I don't know if it is the same grit rating world wide, but started on a 120 to get most of the paint off, and then worke to a 240, then 400, then 600 to get it to a fairly smooth finish. its not perfect, but its got a smooth to the touch feel, but if you apply some pressure with your fingers they stick a little. Dunno if anyone knows what I'm talking about, but I would think this would be good to get the paint stick but still make it look smooth.

I will stop by an auto parts shop tomorrow to see if they have anything higher than 600 grit.

Should I be priming this again, but do a couple of thin layers this time? Or should I go straight to the paint with the way the finish is. Also, if I do prime it, should I sand the primer and then wash it before painting, or just go straight on?

Thanks for all the help, its been a slice.



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roo465
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Post Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 8:18 am   
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Just a quick suggestion here, which seemed to work well on my mates xbox Smile

Once you have your base colour, and have sanded it with 2000 grit (to remove imperfections), apply a few layers of clear laquer, to provide a hard, protective "skin" for your base coat. Once this has dried rock hard, use an automotive-type polishing compound, to give it a nice shine.

You should be able to get a can of clear-coat laquer at a hardware/autoparts shop.

(BTW, we used automotive primer, paint, and clear-coat in a spray-gun, and it came up a dream Wink) If you do have access to an auto paintshop/know someone that does, go for it. If not, just take your time with the cans and you should be fine Very Happy

Cheers,

Roo

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rausch713
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Post Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 11:05 pm   
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The Krylon you're talking about needs a primer -I think that as long as the primer your put on before is still on the plastic, then you won't need more. Make sure that you put on very thin layers. Really a layer should not even provide full coverage. After my first layer there was far more black than orane. It wasn't until the 4th or 5th layer that I had full coverage. Also - You are even further north than me. You better have a heated garage/workshop or wait for for that one day of summer that Canada has to do your painting.
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Greven
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Post Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:15 pm   
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I do have a primer, so I'll add a thin layer and do a light sanding with some 2000 to get a smooth finish on it, and just wash that off.

Will any spray primer work? I have some, but I doubt it was intended to work on plastic.

I'll also try to be sparse on the paint for the few layers.

It is pretty cold, but I have my unfinished laundry room that I'm working. I'm just using a cardboard box with some holes in the side to keep the dust off and I will double the drying time before I apply additional layers.

If it works out I will post some images.


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rausch713
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Post Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2006 10:15 pm   
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As long as the primer says it is for plastic it should be fine - and unless you are sanding down the the case then you are not painting on plastic anymore- you are painting paint.

There is one great thing to keep in mind if you mess up. Same thing that I relied on it I messed up the orange.....


http://www.decalgirl.com/browse.cfm/4,1638.htm

Looks about like what you are going for.

Theres something to be said for doing it yourself - that is why I painted.

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Greven
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Post Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 5:05 am   
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So it ended up turning out not bad. The paint itself is good, the black portions that were taped off have some markings that I would like to remove though. I had success with brasso for polishing the jewel, would this work for removing marks and scuffs from the black plastic?


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