Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 5:13 pm Post subject: Xbox Boots with Red/Green Error?
Hello all! I'm pretty new to the xbox modding scene and I've been messing around with all the crazy things you can do with a hard mod the past month after I realised I was using one that was given to me 10+ years ago.
I just want to give some background on what occurred since I just want to ensure what I did may or may not have caused the issue.
For years the disc drive has been faulty even after cleaning the lenses, but I received another exactly the same thomson drive today that I attempted to finally replace. I found that the clock capacitor was still in the motherboard and had already leaked with the acid all dried up and rusty on both the capacitor and with some on the board. After wiggling it off I gave the exposed board some cleaning with 99% isopropyl alcohol and cotton buds.
Plugging everything back, the console boots all the way to the xbox logo and halts with a green flashing ring. It jumps to the customer support screen and the console starts flashing red / green. I've read that this is due to system failure but I'm stumped on what may have caused it? Did the alcohol possibly liquefy the some of the acid (doubt)? Might I have damaged the solder join for the chip (the points seem intact). Could it be the bios related? I've backed up the C:\ drive including the eeprom if that's of any help. I'm not clear on any other details in terms of software except it's running a slightly old EvoX launcher.
tl;dr replaced faulty disc drive, found a leaked (but dried) clock capacitor and removed it, cleaned the board with isopropyl alcohol, console boots with a red / green flashing ring. Xbox is hard modded with an X2-Pro chip.
I've posted pictures of the internals if someone could examine what chip is installed. Cheers!
The underside of the chip. From an angle it seems that being the black wires it reads X2-Pro.
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The mobo
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The recently removed clock capacitor that had rusty orangey acid on the capacitor itself and on the board. The hard white residue remains.
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A connected RS232 port which controls the chip(?)
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SCARFACE Administrator
Joined: Feb 06, 2007 Posts: 2470 Location: Minnesota, USA
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 6:26 pm Post subject:
Looks to be a xecuter 2.x modchip
Try disabling the modchip to see if it boots fine if it does then there is something going on with the modchip weather it be wires not soldered good the drive is missing dash any error code top left in customer service page show up ? _________________ The one the only Scarface!!
retr0 Xbox-HQ User
Joined: Apr 19, 2018 Posts: 10 Location: UK
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 8:10 pm Post subject:
Thanks for response!
I'm in a bit of a bigger pickle since earlier today the power brick popped, turned off and refused to turn on. As it's a launch console (probably v1.0 in that case), I haven't found any replacements for the power brick / lead since I believe that model was discontinued in the next generations(?) I can put up some pictures if you want. Though I've heard the power lead (figure of eight connector) is universal with other consoles as the input is the same and may work. The brick doesn't say if it's transforming the voltage though, so a standard power lead may work?
If I recall, I disabled the modchip before the power brick problem and the console boots up the same way (goes to customer support screen), flashing red (and green, I think). Disabling before this whole issue, the boot process was the exact same, enabling allowed it to boot in the launch menu as usual.
Seems I've struck a big pot of bad luck today
Last edited by retr0 on Thu Apr 19, 2018 11:35 pm; edited 1 time in total
SCARFACE Administrator
Joined: Feb 06, 2007 Posts: 2470 Location: Minnesota, USA
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 10:54 pm Post subject:
Can’t be that bad I have power bricks for all models so no worries there yea send a pic of the top of the motherboard and the psu too I’ll take a good look at it best I can where are you located USA? _________________ The one the only Scarface!!
retr0 Xbox-HQ User
Joined: Apr 19, 2018 Posts: 10 Location: UK
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 11:21 pm Post subject:
Located in the UK.
I should be able to disassemble the console fully tomorrow and I'll be sure to post some pictures of the mobo + the power unit on-board. For some reason I can't, for the life of me, find this power brick online, but I've got a couple pictures of it here.
I'm thinking a standard AC power adaptor cord should work.
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SCARFACE Administrator
Joined: Feb 06, 2007 Posts: 2470 Location: Minnesota, USA
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 11:31 pm Post subject:
Well Then i am not sure if the power supplies i have work would have to look at the connection on the back side of the xbox but i have never seen that one before also sometimes swapping the cord that plugs in fixes some issues i have gotten 2 tvs free that i just swapped the cord and it worked lol but you can try this here and search you might be able to just pickup a cheap parts xbox not sure if its close to you as i cant read it ha but i have used this to get some stuff sent this way to the usa. Keep a eye out for some crystal xboxs over there for me lmao more after the controller shells but lol usually on there its not bad priced.
retr0 wrote:
Located in the UK. (can't seem to update my profile haha)
I should be able to disassemble the console fully tomorrow and I'll be sure to post some pictures of the mobo + the power unit on-board. For some reason I can't, for the life of me, find this power brick online, but I've got a couple pictures of it here.
I'm thinking a standard AC power adaptor cord should work.
_________________ The one the only Scarface!!
retr0 Xbox-HQ User
Joined: Apr 19, 2018 Posts: 10 Location: UK
Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 12:01 am Post subject:
The port for the power is the 'figure of eight' and is the normal one for other Xboxes. The cord is non-removable which sucks.
But before I realised the Xbox was modded, I was really tempted to buying these cheap modded xboxes on eBay! They have full modded crystal versions for about £40-60 ($50-80) here. Not sure if that's a good deal for you US guys, but it seems pretty good to me. Though I probably won't fork that much money out yet - gunna go full ham to get this one working first
SPPV V.I.P. Lifetime
Joined: Sep 13, 2010 Posts: 2644 Location: Kamloops BC Canada
Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 2:13 am Post subject:
For a crystal that price is good. You could put a NA PSU in it and flog it on EBAY USA for 2-3 times what you paid. Its insane what the yankees will pay for a crystal
But as to your problem we need to treat this just like a weird illness. You have to eliminate causes until only 1 is left. So first thing is you mentioned a configuration where you got the service ewquired screen. You need to go back to that config and let us know the number up in the corner. The other thing that needs to be done is to check hardware 1 by 1. Do you own a potentiometer? Its used by electricians to test current and can be grabbed at the local hardware for 5 or 10 bucks. Leaking clock caps can cause issues beyond the immediate area because the liquid is corrosive and can burn through leads breaking connections and not be visible to the naked eye.
SCARFACE Administrator
Joined: Feb 06, 2007 Posts: 2470 Location: Minnesota, USA
Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 2:30 am Post subject:
first need to get this solved ha I'm in a bit of a bigger pickle since earlier today the power brick popped, turned off and refused to turn on.
and i wouldnt pay that much but people do but its mostly those who have it over here ready for usa as then they dont have to pay crazy shipping ect.. ha im about to buy a crystal boxed for $150 shipped so i mean that is boxed if i was to try to sell i could probably get a lot more ha.
SPPV wrote:
For a crystal that price is good. You could put a NA PSU in it and flog it on EBAY USA for 2-3 times what you paid. Its insane what the yankees will pay for a crystal
But as to your problem we need to treat this just like a weird illness. You have to eliminate causes until only 1 is left. So first thing is you mentioned a configuration where you got the service ewquired screen. You need to go back to that config and let us know the number up in the corner. The other thing that needs to be done is to check hardware 1 by 1. Do you own a potentiometer? Its used by electricians to test current and can be grabbed at the local hardware for 5 or 10 bucks. Leaking clock caps can cause issues beyond the immediate area because the liquid is corrosive and can burn through leads breaking connections and not be visible to the naked eye.
_________________ The one the only Scarface!!
ArchAngle V.I.P. Lifetime Xbox Version: v1.6 Modded: Xecuter 2.6 CE
is just that and really nothing more than a typical 'figure 8' power cord.
The Xbox was actually originally supplied with a pretty standard 'figure 8' but in what must have been a very expensive operation these were replaced by MS when a few Xboxes, in the US I think, apparently shorted and caught fire.
That picture shows one of these really good quality, long, heavy duty replacement cables. They have a built in switch/circuit breaker but that is all that box does. It is not a power supply brick.
This replacement cable design was what we received in the UK and I thought similar ones were provided worldwide too.
In this case the most important thing is that whatever supply board version is required for a Xbox v1.1 if you're in the UK and using it there it must be one rated for the UK mains supply.
Look at the back of the Xbox to the bottom left of the power socket there should be a small label showing: 220v - 240v 1.2A 50Hz.
US Xbox power supply boards are not compatible and if you fit one...........goodbye Xbox and possibly goodbye retr0 too.
retr0 Xbox-HQ User Xbox Version: v1.6 Modded: Xecuter 2.6 CE
Joined: Apr 19, 2018 Posts: 10 Location: UK
Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 5:04 pm Post subject:
Thanks for the clarification @ArchAngle. It turns out that this plug is a surge protector and doesn't transform the voltage like I thought, rather it's done in the xbox power unit. I can confirm that it says 220v - 240v 1.2A 50Hz on the back.
The two buttons on the protector reads 'test' (red) and 'retest' (green) and admittedly I pressed the red button (for some reason - I've learnt to NEVER press the big red button lol). I heard a pop a couple seconds later and it powered off. I'm pretty sure the fuse inside must have gone bust, though I luckily found a replacement power surge protector (UK mains) online which I might end up picking up. Considering the console was bought on launch day, may that version be more susceptible to shorting out like you mentioned? If that is the case, I'll probably be comfortable buying another one of these rather than a direct power lead.
But yeah I wouldn't consider purchasing a US power supply board anyway, the shipping fee's are too damn high
I might try and get into the internals of the protector to have a look and I'll post some pictures, but I can't get to seem to find a good grip screwhead. If the fuse has gone out, I've worked out that it's most likely a 500mA fuse (considering the xbox's power rating 100w, and the standard UK mains of 240v). I'm not an expert in these things, and behind the brick it reads 612mA, does that account for the MOV's and fuse, or the max rating for the MOV's + a ~500mA fuse as a backup if a spike/surge exceeds the MOV limit? - if that makes sense, I honestly don't know.
Also, about using the potentiometer, how would that be used to check the xbox's hardware? Unless you meant using a multimeter to measure the current through the components.
I've been pretty busy lately, so I might send some motherboard pics within the next week. But thanks so much for the responses guys, I'm glad that there's still some community for the OG xbox haha.
kaos_engr V.I.P. Lifetime
Joined: Jun 04, 2012 Posts: 192
Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2018 4:16 am Post subject:
You should be able to press the RESET button until it clicks on the breakered, not fused, power cord to restore AC power to the console. However, since the console an early version with poor stress relief, the AC power connector's solder joints on the bottom of the PSU may be cracked and sparked, burned the contact, which can cause the protection circuitry to trip - removing AC power from the PSU.
Disconnect AC power and remove the PSU. Resolder the two AC power connector's solder joints.
PSU solder joint repair starts @ ~9m55s.
P.S. The connector on the back of the console is not a serial port but connects to the PC's parallel printer port with a 25-pin straight through, IIRC Male-to-Female DB-25, cable to flash the modchip using Xecuter 2 BIOS Manager. (X2.xPro images available on the Wayback Machine's captured copy of xbox-scene.com here)
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Xbox PSU power connector joints not cracked or burnt from sparking.
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Cracked and burnt AC power connector joint
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Xecuter 2 BIOS Manager
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SPPV V.I.P. Lifetime
Joined: Sep 13, 2010 Posts: 2644 Location: Kamloops BC Canada
Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2018 9:07 am Post subject:
retr0 wrote:
Also, about using the potentiometer, how would that be used to check the xbox's hardware? Unless you meant using a multimeter to measure the current through the components.
.
Youre thinking of the old switch potentiometers. The digital style is what Im talking about. Theyre very similar to a multimeter but with a setable breaker that will trip if power is to low or spikes to prevent damage. We used to use them at the RFID factory all the time to calibrate our equipment and to test our chips to make sure they operated within proper voltage.
ArchAngle V.I.P. Lifetime Xbox Version: v1.6 Modded: Xecuter 2.6 CE
Joined: Oct 03, 2014 Posts: 367
Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2018 11:04 am Post subject:
The 'pop' when you press the red button on the replacement cable is quite normal. As I said earlier it is a heavy duty design cable and as such the circuit breaker spring mechanism is of 'industrial' strength which makes a disconcertingly loud click. It is just doing its job.
If you saw smoke coming from the cable then I'd be worried but if not then it almost certainly working correctly. As kaos_engr says if there is a problem there it is much more likely the Xbox's power connector socket solder joints are cracked and arcing.
retr0 Xbox-HQ User Xbox Version: v1.6 Modded: Xecuter 2.6 CE
Joined: Apr 19, 2018 Posts: 10 Location: UK
Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 3:26 pm Post subject:
Hey all, so I've finally got power into the xbox! Funnily enough, I was prepared to do the soldering job on the AC input joints, but I ordered another power surge adapter about a week ago - concluding the surge protector was at fault. I received it today and plugged it into the outlet to find a light on the protector itself appeared unlike my previous one.
I did think that ‘resetting’ the surge on my prior one would reset the circuit, though no power was going through - I'm yet to wonder the cause of it breaking, but it seems impossible to remove the shell.
But anyway, since I have power, the boot problem remains, and I am receiving an Error Code 16. From what I'm reading, it's a dashboard problem (clock setting problem)? Or that the HDD is locked I'm not sure if it's due to removing the clock capacitor since I’ve read there may be issues on softmodded xboxes, but I'm sure that the dashboard and HDD were fully functional before. Again, I'm quite new to X1 modding but I heard that AID may be my saviour - could someone shed some light into the solution here?
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I'm not sure if it's due to removing the clock capacitor since I’ve read there may be issues on softmodded xboxes, but I'm sure that the dashboard and HDD were fully functional before. Again, I'm quite new to X1 modding but I heard that AID may be my saviour - could someone shed some light into the solution here?
